Saturday, January 3, 2015

Day 4 (Jan. 1) – Systems Change

Happy to be alive!
(before, during, and especially after hiking the Aravali foothills)

“Where is the path? This is no path! There is no path!” Uday repeated.

We were all laughing because it was true. We returned to Karech today, this time to trek with the women as they gathered wood from the managed forests. This was my second wood trek, but boy oh boy was this a much more treacherous hike than the time before. Like Uday said, there really was no path to walk on as we followed the women to collect wood. We were literally traversing the side of a mountain. Rocks gave way around my feet. I watched as one tumbled down the cliff until I could no longer see it skipping down the wall. At that same moment, one of the guys asked about the Ironman keychain on my backpack.
“Yep, I’ve done a few half-Ironman races, but this, what we are doing right now, this is crazy!”

I could tell our group was slowing down the women. I felt bad for holding them up, but my legs were quite shivery. Slow and steady was the only way to complete this race. Fortunately, we all made it safely to the wood collection area. The women then used axes they brought with to cut up this preselected dead tree. They tied up the wood into bundles and placed one atop each of their heads for the entire trek back.
Me trying to carry a bundle of wood on my head.
At one point along the way, the eldest women had me try carrying her bundle on my head. I could hardly bare the wait, let alone walk with it along our pathless voyage back. I knew she wouldn’t understand me but I said it anyways, “You are amazing.”

Each bundle weighed about 50 pounds. A single bundle provides about a day’s worth of cooking and heating energy for one home. As a result, wood is collected nearly every day of the year, except during the monsoon season (June-Sept.). Mothers often had their kids come with so they could help gather additional wood to be stockpiled for the rainy season.
Just hugging trees, trying to estimate the diameter of a bundle of wood. A little help please! Ruler anyone?
Later on in the day, I was sitting with one woman in her kitchen. Just like I do at home, I sat gazing into the fire. She was boiling maize when finally, I decided to ask the same question I asked three years ago. Pratiti, the FES fieldwork leader, translated for me.

Sitting and chatting in the kitchen with several ladies as 
one woman boils maize over her wood-burning fire. 

I asked, “If you had a stove that could cook food whenever you wanted without wood, would you still collect wood?” Her answer was no.
I was shocked! Excited! And full of questions. I learned that wood is no longer traded for buttermilk as before. Families now own their own livestock because there is enough fodder in the forest to support domestic animals. It was interesting to hear that the reason families in Karech didn’t have cattle prior was not because they couldn’t afford the cows, but rather they didn’t have any means of feeding the cows. It was neat to see how restoration efforts led by FES have developed the lands and as a result, have provided income for rural families from their buttermilk-producing cattle.

The family had more great news to share. The two sons in the family were benefitting from NREGA, the National Rural Employment Guarantee Act (which guarantees 100 days of work each year upon request to the government, or compensation if there is no work available within 15 days of the request). Both men were able to land profitable jobs in the city doing construction work. They were earning about Rs 300 per day (about $5). They each owned a Honda motorcycle and a cellphone. For this family, and many others in Karech, wood was no longer much of a bartering tool after all.
What did I learn from this? Villages are not static islands separate from the world!! Just like towns and cities everywhere, village systems change rapidly. I am amazed by how much has changed in Karech since my first visit in 2011. I am inspired by the human and governmental efforts that have combined to make a difference in the lives of these rural families.

So where does this leave us? In a busy state of reactionary processing! We are all gearing up to recalibrate our methods, adjust our designs, and reschedule our research plan based on the current state of the system. What happens next is to be continued…    

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